The most visible representation of art deco architecture in St. Catharines is probably City Hall. But there is another unexpected example hiding a kilometre out on the Western Pier of Port Weller Harbour. This small, gated service road holds one of St. Catharines’ more unusual pieces of historical canal infrastructure. Sean heads to the former Port Weller Lighthouse Keeper’s Dwelling, now part of the Canadian Coast Guard Search and Rescue Station. This is History from Here, a video series presented by the St. Catharines Museum and Welland Canals Centre.
This fortress-like structure was built in 1931 and served as a home for lighthouse keepers and their families until 1970. Climatic conditions out on the narrow pier could be quite extreme and this home, with one-foot-thick poured concrete walls, steel-framed windows, and heavy oak doors, was built to withstand whatever came blowing at it over the lake. Furthermore, this structure was built as part of the Fourth Welland Canal project, whose entire design was a showcase of cutting-edge innovations in concrete.
The role of lighthouse keeper at Port Weller was about far more than a lighthouse. Keepers were responsible for operating and maintaining multiple lights on both piers, a radio beacon, a foghorn, and other marine equipment. The first person to fill this role was William Gander, a decorated veteran of the First World War. Gander lived here from 1931 until his retirement at the end of 1945. In 1946, the Williamsons moved in, and this is where the station’s best recorded history begins.
Cyril Williamson served for four years overseas with the Royal Canadian Air Force during the Second World War, leaving his wife Ethel and young sons Bruce and Doug behind in St. Catharines. After the War, “Cy” applied for the lighthouse keeper’s position and was quickly hired. When the young family got here, they were in for a shock. At the time, Port Weller was separated from St. Catharines by a vast farming area, and this pier was especially isolated. Their new home had been left in an unlivable state by the previous keeper. It was not connected to any municipal utilities, meaning no running or potable water. Toilets were flushed with buckets hauled up from the canal. Kitchen washing was done with a hand pump connected to a rainwater cistern. There was no furnace, which meant moving the family back to the city during winter canal closures, and getting through fall and spring with portable heaters. Electricity was provided by a noisy generator station built right into the home, whose main purpose was to power the navigational aid equipment. The generator room doubled as the boys’ bedroom, humming machinery and all. The boys also had to ride their bicycles 11 km to and from school every day and were far away from their friends. Oh, and there was no phone either. The Williamsons were accustomed to urban St. Catharines living, and though they were only in Port Weller, it must have felt like they were on the moon.
Ethel Williamson initially struggled with the isolation, but she soon found purpose and connection by taking up an old hobby of her husband’s: ham radio. She became one of Canada’s first licensed women radio operators, spending hours on the airwaves every day and conversing with people in over 200 countries. Ethel’s unique living situation, along with her rarity as a woman, made her a minor celebrity in the radio world. People from all around wanted to contact her to ask about her interesting life and happenings on the canal. In 1948, Ethel was invited to give a Christmas Day address to the BBC, which was broadcast across Britain. She also promoted the Port Weller Lighthouse on a talk show in California in 1950.
Ethel’s skills and access to radio equipment gave her a great sense of responsibility. Though the War was over, many servicemen were still overseas separated from their families, and Ethel was often asked to help contact them via radio. She later recalled, “Sometimes I wrote to the relatives making a date for them to come to the lighthouse at a certain time… it was the most rewarding time of my life… I knew only too well the awful heartache of being separated from those we love.” Years later, at the age of 102, Ethel returned to the airwaves when a volunteer group set up radio equipment in her room at the Ina Grafton Gage Village in St. Catharines.
The Williamsons lived at the Port Weller Lighthouse Station until the end of 1969 and saw much change in that time. A well was eventually dug for drinking water. In 1949, a new foghorn tower with a matching art deco design was built at the edge of the pier. In 1953, a more modern house was added. The original dwelling continued to be used for operations and to house assistants. Since the Williamsons left, the evolution has continued. The original steel frame lighthouse was demolished and replaced in 1971. Increased automation means that dedicated lighthouse keepers no longer live on site. The station is now maintained by the Canadian Coast Guard, who operate a search and rescue post here.
The former Port Weller Lighthouse Keeper’s Dwelling showcases distinctive architectural features. A blockish main structure is framed by a raised plinth and entablature with a parapet roof. These strong horizontal lines are balanced with vertical features including pilasters with turrets; a characteristic art deco approach. The building also incorporates neoclassical elements, such as a curved transom and sidelights framing the entryway, as well as decorative roofline detailing. Similar stylistic elements can be found on the 1949 foghorn structure.
Though no longer a family home, the former Port Weller Lighthouse Keeper’s Dwelling remains an important piece of canal infrastructure. Operations have changed here over the years, but marine navigational safety is still the core function of this station. Designated under the Federal Heritage Directory in 1989, Port Weller’s distinctive art deco features will continue to welcome mariners into the Welland Canal for generations to come.
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A great story….thanks for this.
In the mid 1940’s I swam in the canal and dove for coins dropped overboard from freighter crewmembers passing through the canal.
Ralph Schultz
Hello Adrian, Sean, …whoever,…
Just a note to thank you for this well written, interesting piece.
Port Weller, …from the late 1940s to the late 1960s has always been on my radar. I come from Port Colborne, and my Father was a sailor on the Great Lakes. I’m familiar with the local stories, and ALSO with the Latcham brothers supply business. (My Father was a Chef, …always goods being ordered etc…)
As a young person, I had several trips ‘on board’ between Lock 8 and Lock 1, and became familiar with the landscape and histories nearby concerning the Welland Canals etc. (My Mother, born and raised in the area had many tales of the areas and the times. She was a great fan.) You already have heard some of my tales, Adrian.
I’m big into ‘Heritage’ and preservation nowadays. SO glad the past continues to speak and to offer so much.
The article (print wise) came through perfectly, Adrian.
My Geek hasn’t been able to identify just what has happened with some of the other articles offered this past year or two. We cannot worry about it either.
Thank you for all you do and offer us by way of keeping open windows of the past.
Sincerely,
Dianne GLobe